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Last night's festive Bastille Day celebration at the Tribeca Grill included not a drop of wine or Champagne, for the legendary brewmaster Garrett Oliver of Brooklyn Brewery hosted an unforgettable evening pairing his special selections with Chef Stephen Lewandowski's renowned cuisine. After passed hors d'oeuvres with Brooklyn Summer Ale, Oliver began the evening's program by reminding us that we have only recently "dug ourselves out of the hole" with beer and food in the United States. Most of the prepared food items we see in the supermarket, he reminded us, are made of neither fresh nor pure ingredients. "A loaf of bread does not stay fresh in a bag for two weeks. It does not look like bread, or taste like bread," Oliver continued. Speaking of a certain well-known bakery item commonly referred to as "bread," he asked the audience: "So what is this thing that has 40 ingredients? A chemical sponge, a food facsimile. This thing has almost no bread attributes." Oliver went on to remind us that artisanal bakers, who largely disappeared after World War II in this country, were not the only victims of industrialization and convenience. "The same thing happened in this country with cheese. What these things technically are is edible plastic; the first edible plastic was Crisco. The mass market American beer is an amazing technological product. The same thing is true of bread," Oliver went on to remind us. "You cannot make a loaf of Wonder Bread at home." We admired Oliver's self-restraint in not discussing the mega-merger of the day, the sale of Anheuser-Busch to Belgian InBev, creating a distribution network of gargantuan proportions. While InBev said it will keep all 12 of Anheuser-Busch's North American breweries open, previous mega-mergers in the wine, beer and spirits industries have not portended well for salaried employees. Nor, one might add, for the consumer.
I had the pleasure of first interviewing Oliver some 15 years ago when he was brewmaster of the now-defunct Manhattan Brewery on Broome Street, and have followed his career with great admiration. He is a top authority on the traditions of brewing in the United States, and he serves both as authority and historian in his many public appearances. Last night he reminded the audience of the unfortunate demise of the American craft of brewing in the 1920s: "We used to have 4000 beers in this country," Oliver mentioned. "We had Prohibition, then consolidation, and then 'progress'; people thought this was really cool. This same thing happened to beer; rather than buying expensive stuff out of which to make it," large breweries went on to "spend all the money on advertising." (One only need think of Miller and Budweiser here.) "It's only now we are getting our culture back," he reminded the audience. "At Brooklyn Brewery we're trying to get older flavors back. A Belgian guy phoned me to today to do a story to see why Americans are so interested in Belgian beers." Fortuitously, Oliver then introduced his Local 1, a marvelous 100% full-bottled fermentation. This product is filtered, and then bottled flat, whereupon it goes into the brewery's warm rooms for two weeks. Moreover, a raw demerara sugar from Mauritius goes into it, ensuring the final product has very low sugar and tastes very dry. Oliver went on to describe how refermentation gives it depth, and the méthode champenoise is remarkably similar. Given that it was Bastille Day, Oliver pronounced his technique as méthode brooklynaise.
Like most accomplished brewmasters, Oliver is also big fan of wine. On a day-to-day basis, he declares, beer is at least as good an accompaniment as wine: "Beer covers so many flavors wine does not," and thus it seemed appropriate to pair with his Local 1 Gulf Shrimp. Given its 9% alcohol content, he suggested that "If you're a wine person, think of it almost as an Alsatian Gewürztraminer." Whether or not one agrees with that assessment, the chef's creative Gulf Shrimp & Lump Crab ‘Corn Dog’ served with Charred Corn, Yuzu & Scallion Relish was impressive and the flavors most harmonious.
For the connoisseur of great beers, assuredly Oliver's Brooklyn Dark Matter was one of the most extraordinary I have ever tasted. The lucky assembled worthies were told that Brooklyn Brewery hasn't designed a label for it yet; indeed, most employees at the brewery haven't even tasted it yet. Dark Matter is the stunning result of Brooklyn Brown Ale aged nine months in barrels, then refermented and filtered. It has a vastly different aroma due to the aging in Bourbon barrels, with a little more vanilla flavor coming through. Paired beautifully with Tamarind Glazed Pork Belly served with Caramelized Onion Pierogi and Choucroute, the tamarind of the pork belly nicely offset the oak flavor. (Not to mention that an Alsatian Bastille Day wouldn't be complete without Choucroute.)
As for the Brooklyn Brown Ale, Oliver noted that "in the old days, they would make sure no wood flavor wound up in beer. These days, it's to get the flavor in the beer." While his Dark Matter was indeed a "slightly hard act to follow," Oliver thought it would be interesting to pair the next course of Grilled Skirt Steak with Fingerling Potatoes & Chimichurri Sauce as his Brown Ale would work well with the Chimichurri. Oliver discussed here the caramelization process in beer, noting it "can grab on to essetial flavor in the steak to get the flavor of the char." Since we humans are evolutionarily predisposed to enjoy the flavor of fire, ("caramelization is built in to our bones"), Oliver calls this a "flavor hook." Stated differently, the brew can both offer contrast and harmony at the same time, a point the audience immediately absorbed through osmosis while devouring both the Brown Ale and Skirt Steak.
Then followed the Chef’s Selection of Artisinal Cheese paired with Brooklyn Grand Cru, of which a mere 350 kegs are produced by the Brewery. "After 6 or 7 weeks it is gone," said a wistful Oliver, reminding the audience of the fleeting nature of seasonal products. Based on a Belgian style wheat beer (with 30% raw wheat), Brooklyn Brewery uses ingredients both sweet and bitter, ranging from orange peel to Indian coriander, whole flower chamomile, honey from an Upstate apiary to achieve its sensational balance of citrus and honey overtones. "Beer has much greater affinity for cheese than wine," said Oliver, and it did not go unnoticed that the Chimay cheese we enjoyed comes from the same source as the legendary source of Trappist Chimay beer. Two other cheeses were equally well-suited for the Grand Cru, a sheep cheese (Zamorano), plus a charming Gouda-style aged cow milk cheese (Roomano). The evening closed with Chocolate Samosas and Cherry Crème Glacée nicely augmented by the delightful Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout.
Tags:
brooklyn brewery, garrett oliver, myriad restaurant group, tribeca grill
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Posted 46 days ago
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Once again old world met new last night with the splendid products of Northern Italy featured at a Seminario Del Gusto, or tasting dinner, hosted by Francesco Bettoni, president of Confagricoltura Lombardia at the Flatiron District's Bar Stuzzichini. With four courses prepared by Chef Paul Di Bari, some intriguing D.O.C. wines from Franciacorta and Oltrepo'Pavese were presented by noted wine expert David Lynch.
Obviously no Lombardy event would be possible without enormous wheels of Grana Padano, which was served with Crostini di Bresaola and a refreshing Cá del Bosco Franciacorta DOCG Brut NV. With 75% Chardonnay grapes, this Cá del Bosco has undergone a dramatic transformation, perhaps due in large part to its repackaging as well as the rebranding of its distributor over a year ago from Paterno to Terlato Wines International. The Cá del Bosco is well-paired with summer appetizers such as Bruschetta con Crema di Ceci (chickpea cream) or a heavy grilled polenta with melted DOP Gorgonzola. (More on the Gorgonzola later.) Here we spotted our old friend Lou of Di Palo Fine Foods, a tireless champion of Italian products and a stalwart presence in Little Italy. Lou informs us he will be expanding his store and feature Italian wines in a brand-new shop next door later this summer.
A first course of Risotto di Carnaroli DOP with Zucchini Flowers reminded us that the Pinot noir of Italy, much of which is unavailable in the United States, deserves closer attention. Lynch noted that 4000 hectares of Pinot noir can be found in Italy, and the Oltrepo'Pavese, approximately 30 miles south of Milan, is the third most productive DOC in Italy. Lynch does not exaggerate when he calls the Oltrepo'Pavese "one of the best Pinot noirs in Italy"; they have been a major player in the United States for quite some time, underscored by the fact that their export number is 19. This Frecciarossa Oltrepo'Pavese DOC Pinot Noir "Giorgio Odero" 2005 had a good body and enticing bouquet. More impressive was the Vercesi Castellazzo Oltrepo'Pavese DOC Barbera "Clá" 2005, an excellent accompaniment to a somewhat rubbery Veal Involtini stuffed with DOP Provolone and simmered in DOC Franciacorta Wine. More unusual for the jaded New York crowd was a white Pinot Noir paired with a rather impossible cheese platter of Gorgonzola, Taleggio and Grana Padano drizzled with honey. Lynch answered a concern as to how this Pinot noir could be white, reminding the fascinated oenophile that any wine can be white if you vinify it off its skins. Indeed, it matched the two soft cheese nicely, but did not stand up to the 12-month-old Grana Padano. You can sample these cheeses today from noon to 4 pm at DiPalo as well as Fairway on the Upper West Side.
Finally, a Panna Cotta with a Salsa di Fruitti di Bosco (wild fruit sauce) rounded out the evening's program, matched with a Bonarda in the vivace style, a sparkling Vercesi del Castellazzo Oltrepo'Pavese DOC "luogo della Milla" 2006 that brought back many warm and boozy summer nights in the Ticino, with local wines that weren't necessarily eminently drinkable but nevertheless enjoyable.
Tags:
bar stuzzichini, di palo fine foods, fairway
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Posted 60 days ago
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Since the demise of Honmura an, our noodle forays have mainly focused on the East Village, generally Sobaya, Soba-koh, and Minca. Yet this new contender, Setagaya, deserves particular praise for both its intriguing broth and classic style.
While hot August nights might not be the most auspicious to slurp ramen, Setagaya surprises the ramen aficionado with its distinctive and authentic flavor. You won't find gyoza or much else aside from ramen on the menu here, though a starter of Edamame or nicely-pickled Oshinko are possibilities. Setagaya is all business, and here you will not spend hours contemplating your bowl or tarrying; instead, think authentic working-class luncheonette: eat it and beat it, because the line of hungry souls milling about only grows longer with every bite you take.
At Setagaya the possibilities boil down to having your California-made noodles served Tsuke-men (aside) or within your soup. In these dog days of summer, Tsuke-men seems a wise choice, for the lukewarm and fascinatingly-complex broth relies on a combination of mollusks, meat bones, Rishiri seaweed, and a distinctive Vietnamese salt plus a cooking process right out of the cult-classic movie Tampopo. Chunks of char-grilled pork float in your bowl, and dipping the cool noodles in this broth allows you to reach a certain mental state just short of nirvana. Several well-known Japanese beers are (when available) augmented by lesser-known brews, and for entertainment a flat-screen television monitor further evokes Tampopo with its continuous broadcast of Setagaya chef Maejima engaged in ramen-cooking competitions.
photos Copyright © 2007 NewYorkCity.com
Tags:
honmura an, ramen, setagaya, sobakoh minca, sobaya
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Posted on 8/17/2007
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How to celebrate the longest and sometimes hottest day of the year? Five years ago, we were shivering in the freezing rain of beautiful Santiago, Chile, and thought we might celebrate this anniversary by visiting New York's most authentic Chilean restaurant, located in the heart of Midtown's Restaurant Row. The charming owner-host, Denic Catalan, came over to suggest a number of fine Chilean wines to match our food selections, and we decided on a tasting of three reds and three whites to sample a few of his excellent bottles on offer. If you are unfamiliar with the famous Enoteca on the Cerro San Cristóbal high above Santiago, then Pomaire is the place to begin. For the uninitiated, Chilean wines represent not just great values, but also a diverse range of splendid varietals ranging from Pinor Noir to Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
You might start your meal with seafood, for a number of offerings nicely evoke this Pacific nation: piquant ceviche, fried spicy shrimp, broiled sea scallops, Chilean salmon tartar, and steamed Chilean mussels with raw clams. Or perhaps enjoy seafood, cheese or beef empanades, all delicately flavored and baked to the proper golden brown. Avocado stuffed with chicken salad as well as celery with avocado salad are popular items, as are the seasonal vegetable salads that Señor Catalan reminds you are selected from daily trips to the Greenmarket. While our northern hemisphere pre-solstice dinner felt a bit warm for Pomaire's excellent caldillo de congrio (fish soup), we noticed it remains a warm-weather favorite in addition to a number of organic chicken dishes.
But repeat trips to South America remind us that big meat dishes are what we crave, and the bistec a lo pobre—which we found throughout Chile—satisfies even the biggest hunger, a huge hangar steak with fried onions, fried eggs and potatoes. Just seeing this steak at Pomaire transports us back to Valparaiso, the historic maritime city with its many funiculares that haul passengers up and down the steep hillsides with winding streets. With a commanding view of the Pacific from our table, we watched an elegant woman of a certain age devour a huge bistec a lo pobre with great gusto. However, we instead opted for the mar y cordillera, the roasted marinated pork tenderloin and mushroom crab cake, an enormous portion with attractively-served chunks of pork cooked to perfection, along with potatoes Provençal, callampas mushrooms in a Port wine sauce. The potatoes were crisp and buttery, the mushrooms utterly divine. In addition, the traditional Pulmay, known otherwise as the feast from Chiloé (the archipelago in southern Chile), was a most festive dish of mussels, clams, potatoes, smoked pork and chicken stewed in broth and white wine. Señor Catalan of course features a number of other hearty traditional plates, including a divine seafood au gratin, the highly-regarded pastel de choclo (meat and corn pie), and a half-dozen other seafood dishes. Or you might opt for the Maipo valley roast beef, nicely seared with a fine Cabernet demi-glaze. Perhaps a lomo al champinon, grilled sirloin with potatoes Provençal and that wonderful Callampas mushroom sauce? And do not overlook the costillar, pork ribs in Chilean spice rub with mixed mashed vegetables charquican with lard and paprika reduction.
Little wonder that Pomaire's Prix Fixe menu is consistently ranked one of the top ten deals in the Theater District, which we can easily understand given the high quality of ingredients and generous portion sizes. Moreover, the 60-seat dining room also features a full bar, which offers great cocktails including the ever-popular variations on Pisco, a national drink beloved in both Chile and Peru. Several pasta, vegetarian and side dishes round out the menu, as do a number of typical desserts such as thousand-layer cake and crepes with manjar sauce. But most importantly, it is the compelling charm and irresistible tranquility that make dining at Pomaire such a rewarding experience. With little of the hustle and none of the tourist-trap atmosphere you find at other Restaurant Row venues, Pomaire remains one of Midtown's best-kept secrets. And where else would you find Pablo Neruda's dessert on the menu?
Tags:
denic catalan, pomaire, restaurant row, theater district
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Posted on 6/21/2007
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A fine opportunity to sample the cuisine of several of New York's finest chefs, the annual Champagne Gala of the American Institute of Wine & Food of course also represented a splendid chance to sample numerous extraordinary wines—mostly of the sparkling variety. Held this past Tuesday night at the Pierre Hotel, the black-tie event featured a lavish menu including duck and foie gras by Jean-François Bruel of Daniel, strip loin and short ribs by Floyd Cardoz of Tabla, Chilean Sea Bass marinated in sake lees, and one of the ever-intriguing desserts by Nicole Kaplan of Del Posto.
Doubtless you want to know more about the wine and Champagne selections:
For the reception, Champagne Taittinger Prélude Grands Crus NV was served with passed hors d'oeuvres ranging from caviar on blini to seared tuna, miniature crab cakes, and a splendid roasted baby lamb chop. The Prélude represents a blend of 50% Chardonnay from Avize and Le Mesnil sur Oger in the Côte des Blancs, and 50% Pinot Noir from Bouzy and Ambonnay in the Montagne de Reims.
A magnificent Champagne Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2000—in a handsome bottle of 18th-century design—accompanied J-F Bruel's duck and foie gras. Typical of Restaurant Daniel style, the attractive minimalist presentation offered multiple flavors in this clever Ballotine. The Comtes de Champagne Rosé ranks along with the Perrier-Jouët Blason de France Rosé as one a most intriguing vintage Rosé and superbly augmented this dish.
There followed a truly stupendous Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1998, paired with Hoyle's Chilean Sea Bass. This Blanc de Blancs is indeed aptly known as the "ultimate expression of the Taittinger style, a Champagne of great refinement, elegance and delicacy," and was truly a highlight of the evening. The subtly-flavored sea bass reminded us of why Nobu 57 consistently remains a top seafood destination in Midtown.
A powerful 2003 Sardinian Agricola Punica Barrua from Isola dei Nuraghi, whose grapes were sourced from two distinctive vineyard sites at Barrua and Narcao, accompanied Cardoz' spice-crusted beef strip loin and pulled braised shortribs. Do keep your eyes on this Sardinian winery, and certainly read more about the viticulture of this fascinating region. Cardoz' Tabla always impresses with its many fine offerings, and as big fans of Goan cuisine (especially hard-to-find pork vindaloo) these two hearty beef preparations were well-augmented by the Agricola Punica Barrua.
The intriguing selection from Artisanal Cheese stood up nicely to a 1986 Delaforce Colheita Porto, a wonderful tawny aged 19 years before being bottled in 2005. We sampled cave-aged Tilset from Brovetto; fresh chevre from Catapano; Kunik from Nettle Meadow; and Baudolino from Bobolink. But the pièce de résistance surely was Nicole Kaplan's dessert, a playful creation of chocolate caramel tart, roasted banana ice cream accompanied by caramel popcorn and peanut butter powder, accompanied by Champagne Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV. Interestingly enough, the Nocturne Sec consists of 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier wines from over 35 crus and a range of reserve wines. At this point, perhaps it is worth recollecting that most Champagnes are produced as Brut wines, with residual sugar of 15 grams or less per liter. (Extra Dry or Extra Sec wines range from 12 to 20 grams, Sec wines from 17 to 35 grams, and Demi-Sec from 35 to 50 grams.) Consequently, the Nocturne Sec was a fitting finale matched with this Del Posto confection. We were pleased to learn earlier this week that Mario Batali has a new landlord at 85 Tenth Avenue, one more understanding of the tremendous resources Batali put into this august establishment.
Not only was this one of the more exciting black-tie events in New York City, but given their focus on food, Champagne and wine, AIWF fortuitously did not makes us sit through long-winded speeches or hours of dedicatory epistles penned for worthy oenophiles. Even nicer, all proceeds went to the Days of Taste program, worthy educational programs and scholarships.
Tags:
aiwf, champagne, days of taste, del posto, floyd cardoz, harpersfield, jean francois bruel, matthew hoyle, nicole kaplan, nobu 57, pierre hotel, restaurant daniel, tabla, taittinger
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Posted on 6/14/2007
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