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La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels

249 Centre Street

Known stateside for their Experimental Cocktail Club, the owners of La Compagnie have brought their Parisian wine bar brand to New York as well, with an interior decked out in brass and marble and the sort of disparate furniture matchings that inevitably lend themselves to words like "rustic" and "eclectic." The important information here is that La Compagnie has a selection of six hundred wines—that is not a typo—and by-the-glass selections are also available, poured using the hifalutin Enomatic wine serving system. Alums of Telepan and La Chassagnette head up the kitchen, which serves an abbreviated menu of cheeses, charcuterie, and pickles, as well as the requisite duck confit sandwich. Requisite? Inevitable might be the better word.