One of SoHo's worst-kept secret's, Keith McNally's Balthazar is perhaps the best appropriation of Parisian fin de siecle brasseries that American can or will ever manage, with decor that includes the signature red leather banquettes one would expect, striking, aged mirrors, and an expansive 27-foot long bar. It's busy, bustling, and beautiful, as though McNally plucked it off of the Boulevard St. Germain himself, brushed it off, shined the silver, and plunked it down on Spring Street.

You will not be overwhelmed by contemporary flair or questionable culinary liberties being taken with the food. Patrons of Balthazar can expect an absolutely reliable menu of bistro fare done right: a chicken liver and foie gras mousse, for example, served with red onion confit and grilled country bread, a stellar coq au vin with smoked bacon (smoked bacon!), a côte de boeuf with onion rings, braised potatoes, and black garlic, and of course, cheese plates and fruits de mer. But while there are no wrong moves at Balthazar, there are a few relentlessly right moves, like the requisite steak frites and steak au poivre, and the Balthazar burger.

As a matter of course, Balthazar offers a list of French wines, but as a matter of pride, it's a staggering four-page deep, 300 bottles wide selection, from whites to reds to rosés by the glass, bottle, or half bottle, and an assortment of champagnes that will make your head and nose tingle alike. For the more adventurous wallets, a whole page of reserve wines awaits from every wine-growing corner of France, ranging from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand. Our recommendation is to order a nice 15-ounce carafe of Beaujolais-Villages or Côtes-du-Rhône and get back to the food menu.

In addition to being a marvelous restaurant in a gorgeous setting, Balthazar's adjacent bakery has become renowned for its fine fare, all available for take out, including the company's signature bread, desserts, and sandwiches.