The Tuscan restaurant Il Cantinori, located in Greenwich Village, opened in 1983. Despite the rustic warmth, stucco walls, wooden beams, and voluminous floral arrangements, the service and menu could use updating. Our most recent dinner there included a classic Italian cocktail missing the most important ingredient, for which fruit flies were substituted. One homemade pasta dish included lamb with the consistency of shoe leather, and the most pronounced flavor of the saltimbocca was in fact salt. And what a shame in the height of summer with the Union Square farmer's market barely five minutes away by foot to serve a bland mess of overcooked green beans as an accompaniment. Though merely average, desserts are enormous. You're probably better off at a place like Bottino, where the Tuscan cuisine is prepared by Chinese cooks.