The reopened Waverly Inn is more glamorous than ever, with a nice mainstream menu of traditional American fare. Once a bastion of impossible-to-get reservations, the Graydon Carter backed Inn has inexplicably gone democratic, offering online reservations even to people of more austere tax brackets. The food largely remains country inn—the sort of Inn that requires a "Ye Olde" on the signage—but as consistency and tradition are two things in short supply (in contrast to attitude) in this city, we give Carter et al a free throw.